The
capital of Vietnam during the decadent 19th-century Nguyen dynasty,
Hue is still an important literary and cultural center. The
city was dramatically affected during the war: Most of the structures
in the centuries-old Citadel were severely damaged. Some of
those royal buildings have been repaired and rebuilt, including
the Forbidden Purple City, the emperor's private residence.
The Imperial Museum within the complex is excellent.
The city
is bisected by the Perfume River, and along its banks south
of Hue lie the many tombs of the Nguyen emperors. You can visit
them by bicycle or boat. We recommend having your hotel arrange
a longboat for you. The driver will take you to the riverbank
nearest a tomb or interesting pagoda, will either show you around
or wait while you explore, and then will take you to the next
one. Often the driver's family comes along to serve you lunch.
Be sure to arrange stops at Tu Duc (an extensive site with lots
of character), Minh Mang (a large and very well-preserved site),
Khai Dinh (modest in scale but quite ostentatious) and the Thien
Mu Pagoda (a lovely seven-tiered structure surrounded by gardens).
Hue makes
a good base for exploring the Demilitarized Zone, or DMZ. It's
best to see the area's historical sites (including the U.S.
base at Khe Sanh, the Vinh Moc tunnels and the Truong Son National
Cemetery) with a guide. Various travel agencies in Hue will
set you up with one.
